NYFW Review – Jason Wu

Jason Wu is the latest designer to commemorate the 1990s, a trend we have been seeing for a season or two now. To make this more obvious, he opened his first half of the collection with top model Karen Elson, who came on the scene in the late nineties, wearing a bias-cut dress followed by a full white-out runway infused with metallic detail, crisp utilitarian pieces with unstructured safari-style suits in fluid suede or silk crepe featuring flap pockets and snaps, trousers and lightweight trench coats.

The show turned into a story about light and dark, “a dialogue between construction and ease”, as Wu described it. The collection moved gradually into grounded nudes, beiges and mints, concluding with midnight blues and blacks shaped in breezy slipdresses, oversized ribbed sweaters and sequin-embroidered skirts.

This particular collection didn’t represent Wu’s signature mark that is usually seen through his rough and overly sharp cuts in previous seasons, pulling back on the strong tailoring and focusing instead on an unstructured but seductive line. Closing the show were Karlie Kloss and Kati Nescher displaying impeccable tank gowns with a sense of quiet effortlessness but still sexy, feminine and sparkly wonderful.